Architecture as Narrative: A Conversation with Olga Bolshanina of Herzog & de Meuron

Architecture as Narrative: A Conversation with Olga Bolshanina of Herzog & de Meuron by Isabella Gasparini and Paulina Monroy Kunz

As part of our Architecture for Fashion course, we had the privilege of attending a special lecture by Olga Bolshanina, a talented architect at the internationally renowned firm Herzog & de Meuron. Known for their thoughtful and innovative approach to design, the office has produced iconic works such as the Tate Modern in London, and several high-end retail spaces for fashion houses like Prada and Miu Miu. 

During her lecture, Bolshanina presented a selection of projects that exemplify the firm's approach to retail architecture. These included the Uniqlo Tokyo store (2020), which reimagines an existing department store building as a new global flagship store; the Miu Miu Aoyama store in Tokyo (2014–2015), notable for its unexpected façade that invites curiosity and encourages passersby to step inside and linger; and the Prada Aoyama store (2001–2003), a landmark project characterized by its distinctive glass-panelled exterior. These projects illustrate Herzog & de Meuron's commitment to creating spaces that are both contextually responsive and experientially rich.

Bolshanina’s presentation offered us an invaluable look behind the scenes of their design process and was followed by an engaging interview that shed light on the philosophical and practical foundations of her work.

One of the themes we explored was adaptive reuse, a recurring strategy in Herzog & de Meuron’s portfolio. Bolshanina spoke about the firm’s past work transforming industrial structures into museums or cultural buildings, balancing preservation with reinvention. She emphasized the importance of “staying honest to the program” and intervening only where necessary, based on deep contextual research and rigorous analysis.

“We try to stay away from style or trend,” she said, noting that every project begins by asking fundamental questions about visibility, quality, and spatial orientation. Rather than following a rigid design formula, the goal is to integrate the building into urban life, contributing meaningfully to the context. “That’s how you can stay timeless—because it makes sense in its place,” she explained. Bolshanina also encouraged students to go beyond the client’s brief and think about the broader social and urban impact of a project.

When asked about materials and their narrative potential—a shared concern between architecture and fashion—Bolshanina highlighted the complexity of designing interiors. “It’s very specific and often the most difficult part,” she noted. Although the firm doesn’t always handle interiors, when they do, it’s because it aligns with the project’s conceptual integrity. Their in-house materials library is extensive, enabling the team to experiment with everything from standard products to custom inventions. Much of this exploration is driven by time, creativity, and input from the dedicated interiors team, emphasizing a holistic design approach where materials are fundamental tools of expression.

On the topic of ephemerality and emotion, we drew a parallel between fashion shows and temporary architectural experiences. Could architecture create a similarly immersive narrative in a fleeting moment? Bolshanina answered humbly: “We don’t pretend to know.” Instead, she stressed the importance of staying curious, asking the right questions, and carefully studying the information at hand. Their process includes analyzing the character of public spaces, traffic patterns, vegetation, and cultural context. It’s an iterative and intuitive methodology—less about imposing a message and more about uncovering it through thoughtful engagement with the site.

This lecture not only gave us technical insight but also a philosophical framework for approaching architecture as a form of storytelling—one that is material, emotional, and deeply contextual.

Olga Bolshanina’s clarity, generosity, and experience offered a rare glimpse into the inner workings of one of the world’s most respected architectural practices.